Tuesday, October 28, 2008

Lucky culture shock and our previous week in Luang Prabang

View of Luang Prabang (click to enlarge)

From stinky heat to cool luxury, we have severely altered our travel life since joining up with Anne and Brian! It had been a treat to spend time with them and tonight we head to Hong Kong for our last days together. Thanks to the computer in their room we have been able to upload a few extra pictures with commentary so find a couple minutes to sit down and enjoy a week or so in the life of Chris and Emily. Of course, if you only have a little time just do a quick scroll through to check out the pictures!


Laos Continued:

Luang Prabang was heaven despite the jungle heat. We loved the town (even the touristy part) and parted with a little extra cash to do a day trek and participate in a cooking class. We had a ridiculous amount of fun. We made some friends and enjoyed dinners out with them. We rented bikes, checked out the palace/museum and a Wat (temple) on hill high above the town.


Here is a fine example of the notorious monks with their black umbrellas which are handy in the frequent weather changes from extreme sun to torrential rain:
This is the main street in Luang Prabang. Check out the French influence:
View from the Wat above Luang Prabang:
A Thai monk tourist behind Chris also wanted to capture the spectacular view. There were a whole load of these shutter bug monk at this hill top Wat.
There wasn't much chocolate in town so Chris resorted to eating condensed milk meant for my Laos coffee! That cute smile was turned upside down a couple hours later when the condensed milk made its rounds through the digestive tract. Surprise surprise.

Me on my rented bike outside of the tourist area in Luang Prabang.

Although we aren't as yoga as we once were, we managed to get in one good practice in our guesthouse room on our travel mats:


Here are a bunch of pictures from our trek and kayak day trip:

Me crossing a bamboo bridge:


Rice-a-roni the Laos and Thailand treat! Seriously though, rice fields are everywhere!


Chris trekin':


Chris giving Laos children's books to the village school:


One of the classrooms at the 3 roomed school. The children are greeting us in the village language (there are about 400 people from this village).


Two little girls in the village snacking on a very popular grain that there is no English name for. It comes out of a hard shell is looks like a soft bean while tasting like a peanut. We have no idea.
Two girls who followed me up the trail before and after this picture:


The trail was very muddy. I fell 4 times! Chris' shoes did not survive as the mud managed to separate the sole from the shoe:

My birks made it through although some threads are now hanging off the side:

A waterfall along the way which we got to swim in. Well worth it after hiking in the heat of the day.
The river which we later kayaked down. It poured rain for the first hour of our adventure and then the sun came out for the rapids which were a little scary but fun. Chris said to me "I'm surprised they would let us do this with no experience." We're not in Canada anymore dear. ;)


The next day we went to Tum Tum Bamboo Cooking School!
First we went to the market where they could show us what the supplies would look like. This first item is Chris' favorite - Spicy Wood! And really, it was spicy. We got to taste it later and it tasted like pepper and there was enough heat to give our lips a slight sting.


Some spices in the market:

Banana Flower! These are actually baby bananas you see here:

Our teacher "Linda" showing us the many different types of eggplant, which includes those little green ones that look like peas!

My attempt to make food art which I completely failed:


This is what it was supposed to look like:


This is a picture of some of the assistants showing us a cooking demonstration. The second girl to the left was our waitress at the actual restaurant the night before. We asked her about her long hours and she said she was trying to pay her way through teacher's college and was supporting her sister.


Spring rolls in progress (Chris and my dish):


And finally... we eat! It was soooo good!


China

From Luang Prabang we took a 24 hour bus ride (where we laid in narrow little beds for the entire trip) straight to Kunming China. We had one day in Kunming before we met Chris' parents and China was a culture shock for us. Between the nose and throat clearing spitting (including in the bus), the cold, the rain and the conversational shouting, Laos seemed like a far away oasis we may have only dreamed. Our first night we woke up to someone whistling and attempting to put a key in our hostel room door. Luckily we had the deadbolt across. The rest of the night we slept with the bathroom light on for fear of a more aggressive burglar coming to rob us of our few yuan and passports. In the end it turns out that these sorts of late night attempts to get into rooms is often a"lady of the night" who has been advised on where the westerners are staying.

Since Anne and Brian's arrival we have not only been living in the lap of luxury but have also had the amazing opportunity to travel with Doug and Debbie who speak Mandarin and Cantonese and are currently living in Beijing. We call Debbie the VP of purchasing as she drives the best bargain in town, while Doug is our tour guide extraordinaire (though we haven't tipped him a cent). Also along for the ride are Raymond (Brian's Business Partner) and Raymond's wife Susan. Raymond's role is to sample all of the local cuisine to ensure it's suitability for the rest of the group...so far his favorite is chicken feet, and Susan is Chris' ally in all his gluten-free dietary pursuits.

Kunming before Anne and Brian arrived. The weather made us feel like we were at home and my shoes were wet for 3 days!!!


Chris' new shoes he had to buy as soon as he got to town as flip flops weren't cutting it in the cold.

Anne and Brian arrive! Kunming at night, and look, its not raining anymore!


Anne spinning the Tibetan prayer wheel at the "minority village" where 26 different village lifestyles were depicted. Kinda like Disney Land except without the rides.


Dancers at one the "villages" where we were served tea:


After Kunming we took a flight to Guilin. No more buses and trains for us! It seems that despite the recycling receptacles in Guilin over packaging is a must. This is me trying to break into my plastic wrapped restaurant dishes:

This is our laundry individually plastic wrapped:

This is the view from a chair lift above Guilin which they called a cable car:

At the top, this is the crew we are now travelling with! From left to right, Raymond, Susan, Brian, me, Anne, Debbie, Doug and Chris:


Gonging a gong for good luck (everything is for good luck here!). There are only two possible outcomes in China, you are lucky or unlucky.


The next day we took a river cruise showing off the regions karsts (limestone mountains erroding into sharp cliffs):
Our boat wasn't the only one heading up the river!

Chris on the boat with Chinese flag:

Rafters who latch onto the boat shouting up "hello hello" and holding potential souvieners:


Me shouting, "hello hello!" I didn't sell a thing!
Another boat zippin by:


The girls being a little silly on the top deck!

At our final destination we went to a tea shop where we tried jasmin flower tea:


Anne and Brian looking very authentic!

Gotta run to catch our flight! Keep in touch and enjoy!

Sunday, October 19, 2008

Land of Smiles x 2

Emily and I have now reached the second country on our world journey: Laos. Upon crossing the Thai-Lao friendship bridge connecting the northern Thai town of Nong Khai with the Laos capital of Vientiane we were welcomed into the country with a gigantic billboard claiming that Laos is the ‘land of smiles’…which was remarkably similar to the ‘land of smiles’ billboard that welcomed us into Thailand over a month ago. Which goes hand in hand with the Thai and Lao peoples favorite expression: ‘same same.’

Since our last blog we have traveled from Chiang Mai to Vientiane, Vang Veing and we are now in the UNESCO world heritage city of Luang Prabang. (see map below).


Here are some pictures from the latest leg of our trip:

Wat Doi Suthep overlooks Chaing Mai city from a nearby mountain top. We rode up the windy jungle road on our rented a scooter. The location for the temple was determined when a white elephant carrying holy relics climbed up the mountain, once he reached the location of the temple he died on the spot. Thus it was determined that this was the sacred site for the temple. Turns out the scooter was the better mode of transport as we are still here to write the tale.


Gigantic bells at Wat Doi Suthep


Us enjoying our first coconut!!!!


Emily indulged in her very own pair of fisherman pants…they obligatory purchase of any backpacker in South East Asia. One size fits all! (I got mine in the first week of our travels).


Yummy yummy in em’s tummy: Khao Soy (a traditional northern Thai dish of deep fried egg noodles and curry)

Ronald has converted to Buddhism (as spotted at the Chiang Mai night market mostly geared to tourists):

Buddha from Wat Phra Singh in the heart of Chiang Mai’s old city.


Couldn’t have said it better myself:

Lonely Boy Udone (as per email address). We chatted with Udone for about half an hour about his life as a Buddhist monk. He had a very interesting story about how he decided to become a monk after his mother passed away when he was fourteen and how he’ll continue to be a monk until he finishes his degree in environmental studies at the Chiang Mai Buddhist University.



As we were wandering around the old city of Chiang Mai, we stumbled across this monk ringing this bell at one of Chiang Mai's numerous Wats


Firespinner at the Chiang Mai Sunday night market. A market more geared to the locals than the other night market on the other side of town.


Street Food chiang Mai style: Pad thai, pad thai, pad thai.


Dried mangoes, one of my new vices


Indigenous drum at the night market, it had a great sound the left side has a bigger opening with a deep base tone while the right side has a smaller opening for higher tones. It was kind of like having two drums in one. I really want to get one on our way back through Thailand next month.


We rented bikes and rode out of town to the tribal museum (as seen behind emily) that describes the life of the nearby hill tribes

Water reflecting from an serene park that emily and I relaxed in while waiting to board our night bus to Laos

Nanaimo Bars!!!!!!!! in a vientiane coffee shop....ah the creature comforts

Pha That Luang which is Laos' most important national monument

inside Pha that Luang

You don't always have to be serious when no one is looking
Patuxai: Laos was once under france's colonial sphere of influence and this is their version of the Arc de Triomphe:

view from Patuxai


Emily and I...a little sweaty from climbing the stairs of Patuxai

Emily catching a little respite on the way down from the top

We arrived in the capital vientiane during the Bun Nam..the celebration of the end of the rainy season. We were too tired from the previous nights traveling to enjoy the celebration so here's a picture of the after math along the Mighty Mekong River:


The ever classic Tuk-Tuk (which we eventually dared to ride):


On the move again, shortly after arriving in the Backpacker mecca of Vang Vieng. The scenery was breath taking, and the tourists were drunk


View from our patio in Vang Vieng:

A Vang Vieng Phenomenon: Endless friends episodes shown at all the restaurants...we have yet to receive an explanation of why this exists

Locals house in Vang Vieng:


Emily managed to snap this shot en route to Luang Prabang. The bus ride was 8 hrs long yet we only traveled about 135 kms. We quickly realized why as the roads were mountainous, windy and only half paved. Along the way there were rural villages clinging to the mountain side. The locals used every space between the road and the cliffs below to sustain themselves, hence the strip of land between the house and road being used for drying:
Enjoying our first glass of wine in Luang Prabang after the beautiful but arduous bus ride:

We will be spending the next 4 nights here in Luang Prabang before heading to the southern chinese city of Kunming to visit my parents!!!!

Hope everyone is well in their respetive corners of the globe.

Love, Emily and Chris